The Essential Checklist
Starting a reef tank is exciting — and overwhelming. Here's a no-nonsense checklist of what's actually needed versus what's nice to have.
The Tank Itself
Bigger tanks are more stable and more forgiving. A 200-litre tank is widely considered the sweet spot for beginners — big enough to be stable, small enough not to bankrupt you on salt. Don't forget the cabinet — a 200L setup with rock, sand, and sump weighs over 250kg.
The Non-Negotiables
- Heater — 200W for a 200L tank. Eheim Jager or Aqua Medic are reliable. Budget around £25–40
- Lighting — Even for softies, proper reef LEDs are essential. AI Prime or Nicrew HyperReef from £100–250
- Flow — At least one wavemaker. Jebao or Jecod units start around £30
- Protein skimmer — The single most important piece of filtration. Bubble Magus Curve or Reef Octopus from around £80
- RODI unit — UK tap water is full of nasties. A basic 4-stage unit runs about £60–100
- Test kits — Hanna checkers for alkalinity (HI772) and phosphate (HI774). Salifert for calcium and magnesium. Budget £80–120
- Refractometer — About £15–25. Calibrate with proper calibration fluid, not RO water
- Salt mix — Red Sea Coral Pro or Tropic Marin Pro Reef are popular UK choices. Around £30–50 per bucket
Nice to Have (But Not Day One)
- Sump — Makes everything easier but adds cost and complexity
- ATO (auto top-off) — Worth it within the first few months
- Dosing pump — Only needed once stony corals are consuming calcium and alkalinity
Where to Save Money
The used market is a goldmine. Tanks, skimmers, lights — all of it depreciates the moment it leaves the shop. Browse second-hand reef equipment from UK sellers to save 40–60% on quality kit.
Where to Splurge
RODI unit and test kits. Cheap test kits give rubbish readings, and bad water is the root cause of most problems.
What equipment did you wish you'd bought first? What turned out to be a waste of money early on?
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